Since you were good enough to send me a sample of Microlon products, I thought I owned you an explanation of why I wanted to try your products and the results of my tests; especially since my interests may be something you never intended for Microlon treatment.
I own a small bullet casting company, Montana Bullet Works, and I specialize in providing the most perfect cast bullets that human hands can make. My customers, you see, are primarily competitors in long range rifle shooting with what's commonly called "Buffalo Rifles". It's a very demanding sport, as we commonly shoot at distances up to and beyond 1,000 yards. You can't cast the quality bullets that my customers expect by machine, so I cast mine by hand, one at a time.
For my bullets to be perfect, my technique and molds have to be perfect. The most daunting challenge that I face, is keeping my molds "factory new" while still casting hundreds of thousands of bullets with them. I cast primarily with steel or iron molds. To keep these molds new, they have to be handled carefully, of course, but they also have to be kept free of rust and accumulated lead particles. Rust on the inside of the mold is virtually impossible to remove and can ruin the mold or result in bullets that are pitted looking or not completely filled out. Lead particles can lead to all kinds of problems, depending on where they are deposited. The most common place is between the top face of the mold and the sprue plate. During long casting sessions, I have to stop and clean the accumulated lead off, or the base of the bullet will be adversely affected. Lead accumulation within the mold cavities themselves, can cause poor
fill out and out of round bullets and can be difficult to remove.
Up till now, the only way to guarantee rust free molds, is to oil them while in storage. Any oil on a mold will prevent it from casting good bullets. Thus, the oil has to be removed when the molds are taken out of storage before they can be used. This is a time consuming and messy process.
The mold also has to be kept clean of lead particles. For about a year, I have been use a Moly spray, sold by Lyman, to treat the top of the mold and the sprue plate. This does help to resist lead formation on these surfaces, but doesn't totally eliminate it. It also isn't a permanent fix and has to be applied before every casting session. In addition, I cannot use the Moly to protect the inside surfaces and cavities of the mold. The Moly spray forms a definite surface layer which causes stippled bullet surfaces and plays hell with bullet diameter.
Therefore, my hopes were that Microlon would accomplish the following things.
1. With treatment, would prevent my molds from rusting, without resorting to oil. And I mean the entire mold, inside and out.
2. Would help lubricate the moving parts of the mold, to prevent galling and wear, instead of using lubricating agents.
3. Would eliminate or demonstratebly reduce the accumulation of lead particles on and inside the mold.
Based on the information that you supplied, I had high hopes that Microlon would help me achieve all of these goals.
For my experiment, I completely cleaned one mold of all lead, using the Outers Lead Out system. It wasn't designed for this, but I make it work. The mold was then washed clean of the Lead Out chemicals, soaked in Lacquer thinner and dried. I then applied Microlon with a small brush, patted away any pooled liquid and let it dry for 24 hours. My "control" molds, where two other similar molds that were treated as mentioned above, with Moly spray.
I then cast bullets with all three molds, using my standard procedure, non-stop, for 8 hours. Each mold cast about 700 bullets and the alloy was kept at a relatively constant 725 degrees.
The Microlon treated mold cast perfect bullets right from the start. There was no sign that there was any oil or volatile components in the mold cavities. There was no discernable lead accumulation within the cavities. There was a very small amount of lead that occasionally appeared on the top of the mold and sprue plate, but this came off easily. The Moly treated molds also accumulated lead in the same area, but more often and to a greater degree. The Moly treated molds also required more effort to remove the lead and the Moly was probably removed with the effort. The molds were not retreated, however, during the casting session.
I re-treated the one mold with Microlon after the completion of the casting session and after the mold was cool. I also retreated the other two "control" molds with the Moly spray. The following day, I repeated the entire process during another 8 hour casting session, and the results were similar, if not slightly better. The Microlon treated mold continued to cast perfect bullets with even less lead accumulation. I also did not have to use any additional lubricant on the Microlon treated mold, as I did on the other two.
In summary, I'm delighted with the way Microlon worked. I can't, of course tell you about any benefits in rust prevention, but I have no doubt that Microlon will work as advertised in this matter. I'm confident that Microlon Gun Juice will protect my molds from rust, prevent galling and wear without requiring additional lubricants , and reduce if not eliminate lead particle accumulation. I honestly couldn't ask for more from one product. I haven't tried Gun Juice on my aluminum molds, but I expect to see similar results. Because aluminum is more porous, I intend to treat these molds several times with Gun Juice
I am wondering, Mike, if I should treat the molds with Gun Juice more than once. In the literature you provided, it stated that the outside or firearms should be treated four times. I will be buying more Gun Juice, as I have about 180 bullet molds currently in inventory. Where can I purchase additional product?
Mike, you have my permission to use my testimonial. If I can be of any additional assistance, please don't hesitate to contact. And yes, I do intend to use Gun Juice on my guns too!
Thanks again for the samples.
Montana Bullet Works